Smith River Lighthouse to Lookouts Bikepacking Route

Distance:  144 miles

Climbing: 25,540'

Difficulty: Epic

The Smith River in Del Norte County, California is a hidden gem located in the extreme northwest corner of the state on the California-Oregon border.  The route travels through state and national parks as well as two national forests including Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, Redwood National Park, Smith River National Recreation Area of the Six Rivers National Forest, and a small portion of the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest.  Beginning at Battery Point lighthouse on the coast, the route heads straight out of Crescent City to an ancient coast redwood forest.  Within 4 miles the route turns to gravel as it winds through a grove of giant redwoods in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park.  The forest habitats along the route have a high variety of conifer species and unique plants due to diverse topography, geology, and climate.

• The route crosses all three forks of the Smith River, which is known for its crystal clear water, amazing swimming holes, and abundant native fish and wildlife. The Smith River was added to the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System in 1981.  It is an undammed and free-flowing river.
• There are many camping options including a backcountry camp, developed campgrounds, dispersed camping, and the Bear Basin Butte USFS rental lookout
• Two existing forestry fire lookouts provide spectacular views
• The route utilizes a network of USFS gravel roads that are generally well maintained with several route options.  The route avoids major highways and is limited to less than 1 mile of highway travel.
• There is year-round water throughout a majority of the route
• Elevation ranges from sea level to just over 5,000 feet. Recommend riding from June to October due to potential for snow at higher elevations. Prime time is July to September to take advantage of warm temperatures and swimming opportunities
• Summers are dry and warm with temperatures ranging from 80-100 F. The rainy season from October to April has an average annual rainfall of 90 plus inches
• The route is climbing intensive with several extended climbs. Recommend ample mountain bike gearing and minimum 2” tires for the singletrack and some rough gravel sections.
• Recommend 3-5 days, but your YMMV

Lost Coast Tour

Update: July 6, 2020

I toured this route again on a two day overnighter that included a dirt route from Ft. Bragg to Willits. If you’re interested in that route check out the Sherwood Road post.  This time I was on a proper bikepacking bike, a Salsa Cutthroat, which left no doubt that a mountain-style bikepacking bike is the best choice.  You could complete the route on a loaded gravel bike or touring bike but fit the largest tires possible and make sure to have mountain style gearing.  I was running a 32x46 low gear and only walked a couple of sections. I was able to bomb the steep dirt sections with confidence on 29x2.2 tires and disc brakes.   I’m leaving my original post below intact because it is still accurate, except for a few changes I noted:

• There is no water at Tolkan campground.  The water system is broken and appears to be permanently decommissioned.  I chose to ride on to Wailaki campground.  Here there is water but you have to filter it from the creek.  
• Bring a water filter.  I found really nice springs on Kings Peak road after crossing Bear Creek.  There is also a spring on Usal Road between Wailaki Campground and Usal Beach Campground.  
• Below is the route starting in Eureka at Herrick Avenue on the south side of Eureka.

Original 2011 post describing the route starting in Ferndale.

Cumulative Distance: 93.65 miles
Cumulative Climbing: 14,768 feet
Difficulty: Epic
Type: Mixed, 37 miles of dirt roads
Start: Ferndale


The Lost Coast Tour is an alternative to touring down Highway 101, the Avenue of the Giants, and Highway 1 between Eureka and Fort Bragg. The tour can be included in your coastal tour or completed as a fun short tour that can be made into a loop or a point to point. I completed the ride in the summer of 2011 as a counter clockwise loop from Eureka to Usal and returning via Leggett and Highway 101.

The Lost Coast is shrouded in mystery, myth, and adventure. This post provides a reasonable way to complete the tour including recommended equipment, distances, and stops. I'm sure a maniac could complete it in one day, but I recommend at least 3 days. I believe any experienced cyclist can complete the tour if you are patient and pace yourself.

Here are my recommendations for equipment. I'm sure you could complete the ride on most any bike, but some would be better than others. I would not recommend a road racing bike with narrow tires and overloaded rear rack. A mountain bike or touring bike with ample gearing and wide tires is mandatory. I completed the ride on a loaded steel touring bike with a triple crankset, mountain bike cassette, 650B x 42mm Grand Bois Hetre cushy tires, 40 pounds of gear, 4 water bottles, and spare parts. At times I wished I had ridden my 29er and gone for a superlight off-road setup. There were times when I really wanted to bomb the gravel road descents, but had to carefully pick my lines and control my speed to avoid crashing or pinch flatting.

• Make sure your bike is in great mechanical condition.


• Choose reliability over speed.


• Have extra water carrying capacity such as multiple bike bottles or a hydration pack. Water stops are critical strategic points. Don't pass one up without filling up. It's a good idea to bring a water treatment system such as a filter.


• Bring extra food. There are only two stores and they are located early in the ride.


• Don't rely on a cell phone for safety. I had poor cell coverage for most of the ride.


• Let someone know your route and stick to it.


• Bring enough clothes to cope with extremes in temperature. I experienced cold 47 degree drizzle to temperatures in the 90s.Don't do this ride in the winter. The Usal road is not maintained during the winter and would be impassable because of the sticky clay surface.

The following are some route recommendations and directions. I won't be overly-detailed, so the ride will still have some adventure left for the rider who chooses to follow these directions. The best advice I read was from John Zilly’s book “Wild Pigs: The Mountain Bike Adventure Guide to the Pacific Coast,” where he describes this same route. If you are used to 100 mile days on a road tour, expect only 30 mile days on the Lost Coast.


DAY 0- Eureka to Ferndale Distance: 16.65 miles
Climbing: 694 feet

The real starting point for the Lost Coast is Ferndale. The ride from Eureka to Ferndale can be easily accomplished by riding down 101, taking the Ferndale exit and following the signs to Ferndale. However, if you want to avoid riding on the Highway as much as possible, follow this description.

0- Start, Herrick Avenue Exit, Highway 101
3.8- Exit 698 for Tompkins Hill Rd toward College of the Redwoods
4.3- Right towards College of the Redwoods
6.9- Right on Hookton Road, turn right and continue over Highway on overpass
7.2- Continue straight on Eel River Drive, don't get on the Highway
9.8- Loleta, Straight or turn left on Loleta Drive to the Loleta Cheese Factory or Loleta Bakery
11.6- Right on Fernbridge Drive towards Fernbridge
12.2- Right on CA-211 towards Ferndale
16.0- Turn right onto Van Ness Ave towards the Fairgrounds, or straight into town for supplies
16.5- left onto 5th street
16.65- Arrive at the Humboldt County Fairgrounds

The camping at the fairgrounds is simple and cheap, but there are warm showers and lots of good restaurant options downtown. Plus, this is the best place to start since it is only 3/4 of a mile from the start of the route.


REFER TO THE ROUTE SHEET FOR TURN BY TURN DIRECTIONS

DAY 1- Ferndale to A.W. Way Campground
Distance: 35 miles
Climbing: 4520 feet


The day starts off with a climb up the Wildcat/Mattole Road. The road is narrow, but there is little traffic and the drivers are polite. If this steep paved climb makes you doubt your fitness, you have not seen anything yet. You should consider turning around because the dirt roads in the King Range are much more challenging. There are two big climbs on the route within the first 20 miles. The first climb tops out at 1909 feet at the 7.2 mile mark. The descent into Capetown will challenge your brakes and descending skills. If you have weak brakes now, consider turning around or adjusting them. The dirt roads in the King Range are much steeper. The next climb isn’t as long, but there are a series of tough switch backs and uneven pavement that will test your bike handling and climbing skills. You get to bomb down the 18 plus percent “Wall” on the way down to the ocean. This is a nice treat if you are used to climbing the Wall during the Tour of the Unknown Coast.

After a nice tailwind along the ocean you head inland climbing towards Petrolia. At mile 29.6, stop at the Petrolia store for supplies. They have a small market with basic supplies, but can also make great deli sandwiches. You are in store for more climbing before you reach A.W. Way. At mile point 30.6 you will turn left after crossing the Mattole River. An alternative camp site is located down Lighthouse Road on the ocean at the Mattole Campground

As you head east along the Mattole River you will be challenged by the last significant climb of the day, the “Dump Hill” at mile point 33. There are a couple of tough switchbacks that will have you fighting your bike. From here it is an easy ride into A.W. Way Campground at mile point 36. The campground has recently been upgraded with a brand new bathroom and hot showers! Pushing on to the Honeydew Creek campground is a mistake. A.W. Way has a nice swimming hole and there are several river-front camping sites to pick from. In contrast, Honeydew Creek is smaller, less private, and has no potable water. There are no showers or flush toilets like A. W. Way.

Day 2- A. W. Way Campground to Wailaki Campground
Distance: 30.5 miles
Climbing: 4921 feet

Today you will get your first taste of gravel road touring. The ride to Honeydew Store at mile marker 8.1 is fairly uneventful with a couple of small climbs. Stock up on water and supplies at the Honeydew store before heading into the wild. The real challenge begins just after the 10 mile mark on Wilder Ridge Road. The road starts to climb and switchback at perhaps the steepest grade so far. A 0.4 mile gravel switchback section challenges you to keep you front wheel from washing out and your rear wheel from loosing traction. After 11.6 miles, the slope becomes more gradual, but the climb continues all the way to Kings Peak Road at mile point 15.8.

Now the real challenge begins on a steep gravel descent to Bear Creek. Your brakes and handling will be challenged as you try to avoid washing out on the tight switchbacks. I once turned back here afraid of what I was in for. Be happy that you don’t have to climb this beast of a road. The only car I saw on this whole dirt section was a Toyota Landcruiser. As I passed them I saw a curious look in their eyes as I bombed down the rutted road on a touring bike. The rough road will challenge you as you steadily climb above Bear Creek and cross several small creek fords. Pass up Horse Mountain Campground for Tolkan, where there is potable water (Update, June 2020, water system broken). This is a great base camp if you want to ride the Paradise Royale mountain bike trail.

From here the climbing continues until you reach Shelter Cove Road at mile point 28.1. If you are short on supplies, it is a tough decision to ride all the way down the descent to Shelter Cove. It’s a little over 3 miles, but it means a tough ride back out. Turn left on Shelter Cove Road and head out Chemise Mountain Road to Wailaki Campground. The nice smooth pavement, shade, and gentle topography are a welcomed change. Wailaki is an important stopping point with nice camp sites along the South Fork of Bear Creek. This is a great place to rehydrate and rest before conquering the ride to Usal. If you choose to push on like I did, expect to spend a long day in the saddle, even though it’s only 22 miles to Usal Beach Campground. It took me nearly 4 hours at a meager pace of 6 miles per hour.

Day 3- Wailaki Campground to Usal Beach Campground
Distance: 23 miles
Climbing: 4025 feet

I had heard rumors about the Usal Road being the worst road on this whole ride. I also heard stories of vehicles getting stuck on the unmaintained road during the winter. The Usal Road lived up to its reputation, but it is totally rideable during the summer. The road varies from hard packed clay to loose gravel. Along the way you will have to pick good lines between ruts left from 4x4s and the small erosion gullies left from winter weather. The road is not maintained in the winter, but it didn’t appear like it was maintained during the summer either. If you are a mountain biker, this will seem like a normal fire road or logging road ride. Riding 23 miles on an unloaded mtb would be less of a challenge. But, it is demanding if you are trying to control a loaded touring bike. During this ride I saw only one SUV and two motorcycles. You will be out of cell phone range and away from help, so ride cautiously!

Chemise Mountain road sounds like a barren and hot ride. However, both Chemise Mountain Road and the Usal Road are covered by a nice canopy of second growth Douglas-fir and tanoak the majority of the way, which provides lots of shade.

At mile point 0.95 you will be greeted by a steep gravel descent. After this white knuckle experience you will love the paved rolling terrain for a couple of miles as you pass the community of Whale Gulch. The real peace and isolation starts when you ride up the narrow and twisting Usal Road 4.5 miles into the ride. There are few landmarks along the way as you seem to continuously climb on the narrow dirt road. After 19 miles of climbing and ups and downs you will bomb down to the Usal Beach Campground, part of the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park

This simple campground features private camp sites up Usal Creek, along the beach, or within a small prairie. There is no potable water here, but water may be available in Usal Creek if you have water treatment options.

Day 4- Usal Beach Campground to Highway 1 and Beyond

If you choose to push on or spend the night, you have 5.5 miles and 1300 feet of climbing to reach Highway 1. Fort Bragg is an additional 28 miles further.
Here are some more resources:

• BLM King Range Information HERE


• Sinkyone Wilderness Information HERE


• Asana Cycling Surly Big Dummy Tour has a fun description of the ride and some video of the adventure


• John Zilly's "Wild Pigs: The Mountain Bike Adventure Guide to the Pacific Coast" published in 1995 details the route. I used this for my adventure. The only real changes are there are a couple sections of road that have been paved since 1995. It details mountain bike rides all along the west coast and is available at Amazon


• Amy L's Northern California Bike Loop Advice Blog where she road the Usal road from south to north and then headed east towards Redway.
  

Showers Pass

Distance: 75.26 miles
Climbing: 12,506 feet
Difficulty: Epic
Start: Freshwater


Miles of gravel roads like this await your exploration.

This is another Humboldt County classic training ride. It has approximately 40 miles of gravel roads. Many of these gravel roads have steep climbs which can reach 18% in many places. This route follows a clockwise direction. Some locals like to do it in a counterclockwise direction, but I think this makes it harder. By doing it in a clockwise direction you can do the last hard climb on pavement rather than on gravel. After 10,000 feet of climbing, the pavement seems much easier.

The best bike for the ride is a cyclocross bike or mountain bike set up with fat knobby tires and plenty of gears. I would recommend a compact crankset with a mountain bike cassette or a triple crankset. A standard road bike with a 53/39 crankset would make the ride nearly impossible, but I'm sure it could be done. Make sure to take lots of food and water. I would recommend at least 3 large waterbottles and/or a hydration pack. During the summer you could encounter 90 plus degree days and even 3 waterbottles may not be enough. This ride inspired the name of the clothing brand Showers Pass, which makes high quality outerwear.


The ride starts at "Three Corners" and heads up to Kneeland Airport and beyond. Once you get beyond the Kneeland Airport there is hardly any traffic. You could also drive up to the Kneeland Airport and start there, saving 26 miles or so. The ride starts in the redwoods but you are soon riding through open oak woodland and Douglas fir forests with magnificent views. The land is all privately owned and used for cattle grazing. During the ride you will likely see a lot of wildlife, especially deer.

• 0- Start at Three Corners and head east on Kneeland Road. To get there take Myrtle Avenue from downtown Eureka for approximately 4.5 miles. You can park your car in the gravel parking lot on the south side of Kneeland road near its intersection with Myrtle Avenue.
• 3- Freshwater Park. This is the start of the Kneeland Hillclimb.
• 7.6- Kneeland Post Office. This is the end of the Kneeland Hillclimb. A fast time is less than 30 minutes from Freshwater Park. Continue climbing.
• 9.25- Bear right at the intersection heading for the Airport.
• 11.9- Kneeland School. There is a water fountain near the playground.
• 12- Continue straight at the Barry Rd intersection.
• 12.3- Turn left onto Mountain View Rd.
• 13.2- Kneeland Airport. You could park here and cut 26 miles off the ride.
• 14.23- Cattle Guard and start of gravel. Be cautious on the descent because there are steep grades.
• 20.4- Continue strait at the Jack Shaw Rd. intersection.
• 22.75- Bear right at the Butte Creek Rd. intersection.
• 23.88- Turn left on Showers Pass Rd. (Note: if you are tired you can go straight to the Kneeland Rd. via Lone Star Jct. and then turn right to go back to Kneeland, which cuts significant mileage. However, you have not truly done the Showers Pass ride unless you complete the second loop.)
• 30.25- Go right towards Bridgeville at the Kelly Rd. intersection.
• 31.6- Continue straight (lower road) at the Gorden Rd. intersection (poorly marked).
• 33.4- Bear right at the Stapp Rd. intersection.
• 35.95- Bear right over bridge.
• 37.8- Bear left at the Dairy Ridge Rd intersection (unmarked).
• 42- Turn right at the Kneeland Rd intersection.

You are closer to Bridgeville than Kneeland at this point.

• 42.9- Continue straight at the Redwood House Rd. intersection.
• 51.5- Continue straight at the intersection with Lone Star Jct.
• 54- CAUTION- over the next few miles you may encounter dogs at the ranch houses.
• 62.9- Continue straight towards Kneeland and retrace you path back to Three Corners. If you parked at the airport you need to turn right here.
• 75.26 Three Corners. Congratulations, you have completed one of the most difficult rides in the area.

RideWithGPS route, note, mileage varies a bit from my notes above.

Lone Star Junction Alternative

The more popular alternative is to just do the Mountain View Road portion of the ride counterclockwise starting from Freshwater Park.  This is the route for the annual Banana Slug Training ride hosted by the Redwood Coast Mountainbike Association.  Don't underestimate the difficulty of this shorter ride which is 48.7 miles and 7526 feet of climbing.  The last long climb on Mountain View Road has steep gravel pitches.

Forks of Salmon Loop

Distance: 100 miles
Climbing: 10,000
Difficulty: Epic
Start: Forks of Salmon or Etna


The Salmon River Loop is a beautiful low traffic century in Siskiyou county. Here's a link to the Siskiyou Velo route description

We completed the ride in a clockwise direction starting at the Forks of Salmon Post Office. This is an easier way since you hit the toughest climb first. We also had the luxury of stopping for lunch at the Etna Brewery!


If you start in Etna you have to tackle the most difficult climb last after a long hard day. This ride rates as an epic, just like the Tour of the Unknown Coast. The scenery is spectacular and it is a must do for any north coast cyclist, even if the start is 2 hours from the coast. Traffic is generally light until you reach Highway 3, which you won't mind at all. In fact, at one time our squirrel count was higher than our car count!

The route would also make an excellent tour with several campgrounds along the way.


I have not provided a detailed route description because the ride can be started anywhere along the loop and there are few turns and lots of road signs. We started in Forks of Salmon, took Sawyers Bar Road to Etna, Highway 3 towards Callahan, and Callahan/Cecilville Road back to Forks of Sallmon.

Forks of the Salmon Loop

Tour of the Unknown Coast

Distance: 97.37 miles
Climbing: 9724 feet
Difficulty: Epic
Start: Ferndale

THE WALL! Is it a relief to know you are almost done or dread to know that the hardest climbs are yet to come?

The Tour of the Unknown Coast is advertised as California's toughest century. It features over 9,000 feet of climbing, including the infamous WALL which has a grade over 18%. It is completed in one day by hundreds of cyclists every year on the Saturday before Mother's Day in May. However, it can also be covered in two days by camping at AW Way County Park, which is 61.4 miles from Ferndale. Click on the Tour of the Unknown Coast Link for more information, including maps, tourist information, and past results.

"The tour began under the guidance of area bicycle mechanic Ron Berager and some friends who cycled the loop out and back from Ferndale informally until 1976, when the event became a fundraiser for the St. Bernard High School PTA (Times-Standard, March 28, 1993, page F14)."

The course record was set in 1990 during the final stage of the Co-Op Classic stage race. Victor Dewees (Specialized Bike Gallery) finished the route in 4:33:24. During the same stage future Tour de France champion Lance Armstrong (Subaru Montgomery) finished in 12th place with a time of 4:44:36. "Armstong showed the heart of a champion in Sunday's race. The 18-year old Texan battled back from a crash and flat that left him down more than four minutes to the leaders near the top of Panther Gap (Times-Standard, May 21, 1990, page 10)."

For more tour trivia check out my "scrapbook" at http://tucscrapbook.blogspot.com/

Surrounded by towering old growth redwoods on the Mattole Road you can't help ponder the meaning of life among ancient trees. And yes, they look better from a bike than from a car window!

Detailed Route:

• 0- Start at the Humboldt County Fairgrounds, located at 1250 5th Street, Ferndale, CA. There is parking, bathrooms, and a small campground located here. Head south on 5th Street.


• 0.8- Turn left onto Ocean Ave. which turns into Grizzly Bluff Road.


• 5.97- Bear right at intersection with Price Creek School Rd (sign to Rio Dell)


• 6.47- Bear left on Blue Slide Road. You will travel over the “Three Sisters” in the next 6 miles, which are short steep climbs.


• 13.1- Turn right onto Wildwood Avenue in Rio Dell.


• 14.4- Continue straight onto Main Street in Scotia at the Highway 101 interchange.


• 14.5- You will pass Hoby’s Market where you can buy additional food or water. You will also pass the historic Scotia Inn, Winema Theater and Scotia Museum.


• 15.2- The Pacific Lumber Company has an interpretive anadromous fish display and portable toilet on the right side of the road. This is a good stop before you head out on Highway 101.


• 15.92- Turn left and then immediately right onto Highway 101. The highway has a fairly wide shoulder which you will be riding on for approximately 4 miles.


• 20.08- Turn right off the highway at the Avenue of Giants/Pepperwood exit.


• 20.2- Turn left and continue on the Avenue of the Giants under the highway.


• 25.3- Immortal Tree. This tourist stop is open seasonally and has bathroom facilities.


• 27- Redcrest. This small town has a restaurant and market, both of which may be closed or have limited hours in the winter.


• 30.97- Bear right on the Mattole Road traveling under the highway in the direction of Honeydew and Bull Creek. Don’t turn left and go over the bridge on the Avenue of the Giants. Over the next 8 miles Humboldt Redwoods State Park has day use areas and campgrounds, which may offer facilities seasonally. You will also complete the climb to Panther Gap with an elevation of 2744 feet. You will leave the old growth redwood groves and transition to Douglas-fir forests and open oak woodlands as you near the Mattole River Valley.


• 53.17- Turn right on the Mattole Road after crossing the bridge over the Mattole River. You are in Honeydew which has a nicely stocked market.


• 61.4- AW Way County Campground with bathrooms and water. This is the lunch stop on the official Tour of the Unknown Coast.


• 66.8- Bear right over the bridge which crosses over the Mattole River.


• 67.87- Petrolia. This small town has a well stocked market. This is the last location for services before the finish in Ferndale.


• 78.77- THE WALL. This is the start of the infamous wall which reaches grades of 18-20%. This is when the ride really begins.


• 82.8- The beginning of the “Endless Hill” which is a real test of your endurance and climbing abilities.


• 90.64- Continue straight and downhill at the intersection with Bear River Ridge Road.


• 96.7- Turn right onto Ocean Avenue and then almost immediately left onto 5th Street continuing back to the end at the fairgrounds.


• 97.37- End at the Humboldt County Fairgrounds.

Click here for a printable route sheet

Click here for a link to the Garmin Connect website, which includes more data and a Google map of the route.

Below is a map from MapMyRide.com. Clicking on the map will direct you to the website where you can view the map through Google Earth or download a Garmin Course or GPX file. You can also print the map with notes.